Warning: This could be a potentially long post.
This was suppose to be up here about approximately 15 months ago if I wasn't much of a procastinor. Clearly I excel at it but still my strong will coupled with sheer determination to write has brought me back here well after a good 11 months from my last entry. That is how long I have not been blogging.
So this much forgotten awaited post shall be about my trip to Sabah somewhere in May 2010 where I conquered a mountain and braved a river. The rest of it was history. :D
One of the best of trip of my life. Had I not dragged this post this long, I would have succeeded in remembering a great deal of the trip. I recollect my memories now as I rummage through my photographs. Let me just sum up the trip in days.
Day 1-2
When you hear someone says Sabah is beautiful. Belief them. I fell in love with the other half of this Borneo land the moment the airplane flew across the shimmering sea. What a beauty it was. Landing in Kota Kinabalu International Airport, we were greeted by our guide (wait, come to think of it, I can't remember if there was a guide), let's assume there is one. We headed to one of the local market (ok, I'm pretty certain there isn't a guide now) to get Kampung Adidas shoe. The weapon for our warrior climb. History has it that this RM10 rubber boots akin to football shoes are the best for the climb. The next morning, our journey begin with our guide (I'm sure this time is when he came with his minivan) picking us up by a van to the Kinabalu Park. Kinabalu Park, in the state of Sabah is a UNESCO world heritage site and is predominated by Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain in Southeast Asia between the Himalayas and New Guinea. It's highest summit stood at 4,905m above sea level. Mount Kinabalu is known to be one of the most accessible mountains in the world. One needs no specialized mountain climbing skills to ascend it, however it isn't a piece of cake altogether. A reasonable amount of fitness is generally required and an acclimatization to the thin air at the higher altitude goes a long way here. Trust me it's a looong way to the peak. Nevertheless, this mountain that the locals believe to house their ancestors spirits can be a dangerous place as well especially during the rain or when visibility is clouded by the mist.
Although it is possible to climb to the top and back in less than 4 hours ( Yup, many crazy people do climbathon here in this mountain), most climbers take two days, with an overnight break at Laban Rata. (3,272.7m above sea level). The final attack on the peak takes place in the early hours of the second day in order to catch the sunrise at the top.
To get to the summit via Laban Rata, there are two trails which are available, the Mesilau Trail, about 5- 6km(the longer more beautiful route) or the 3km Timpohon Trail, from the Kinabalu Park headquarters itself. ( the shorter but duller route). Based on my personal experience, I would recommend the earlier for first time climbers as the altitudinal and climatic gradient from tropical forest to alpine forest provides a view to the myriad of vegetations that grew there. All hold its' own true mesmerizing beauty. We had a glimpse of the mountain in a hide and seek manner along the way in our minivan. Before reaching Mesilau Nature Resort (where we stayed before the next morning climb via the Mesilau Route), we pit stopped at Nabalu Town Shop.
This shop typically sells the local crafts and other essentials for the climb such as walking sticks, balaclava, socks, gloves and other essentials. We passed by the small town of Kundasang, which is the centre of the highland vegetable industry in Sabah. We pretended to buy fruits and vegetables from the many stalls that line the side of the road for picture sake. The Mesilau Nature Resort at 2000 m, is the pick for most climbers who ascend to the summit via the Mesilau trail. These are lodge style large log cabin houses which comes in various forms from 2-3 bedrooms to the dormitory style. We stayed in the Bishop Head 1 lodge and slept in bunk beds. It wasn't the luxurious kind of resort just a decent clean accommodation to sleep in with basic amenities.
This shop typically sells the local crafts and other essentials for the climb such as walking sticks, balaclava, socks, gloves and other essentials. We passed by the small town of Kundasang, which is the centre of the highland vegetable industry in Sabah. We pretended to buy fruits and vegetables from the many stalls that line the side of the road for picture sake. The Mesilau Nature Resort at 2000 m, is the pick for most climbers who ascend to the summit via the Mesilau trail. These are lodge style large log cabin houses which comes in various forms from 2-3 bedrooms to the dormitory style. We stayed in the Bishop Head 1 lodge and slept in bunk beds. It wasn't the luxurious kind of resort just a decent clean accommodation to sleep in with basic amenities.
Day 3
The next morning after a hearty breakfast, we began our walk up the Mesilau Trail as early as 7am. We were accompanied by one guide and a few porters. As our climb was during the school holidays, our porters were all school kids. We were told by our guide who is by the way a 17 year old lad that, during school holidays these boys volunteer to become porter to earn some extra cash. They exude amazing strength although all of them were barely 15 years old and while we were with our proper climbing shoes and miniature backpacks, they were just wearing flip flops and even more impressive ; with a load of at least 5kg on their back, they moved at an astounding speed, sometimes even running. The start of the trail from Mesilau Gate up to the first steep descent is an enjoyable walk in itself that only takes about one hour, one way. The trail starts from a shelter just above the reception office (where we weighed our bags to be carried and registered our names) in the tall oak-chestnut forest. As we ascend up, there were conifer trees while climbing bamboos dominate the undergrowth. After a short climb over the ridge crest, the forest suddenly becomes stunted, with rocks and boulders jumbled among tangled tree roots, covered in spongy mosses and liveworts.
The path soon rises steeply once again to an open patch, before levelling off slightly, still following the narrowing ridge crest which then gives way to the stunning view of the mountain above. We even saw the waterfalls midst the rocks of the mountain. Truly spell bounding. The ridge-top is reached just before the 1.5 km mark. Here the trail starts to descend quite steeply down the other side, through taller forest with climbing bamboos. We passed many little streams before reaching the Kipuyut bridge, a suspension bridge across the Mesilau river. Along the way there were many beautiful plants of different species. From here, the trail follows the ridge, rising steeply and continuously, up and up and up in an almost never-ending series of steps for about 2.5 km where many times I thought to myself "Why did I want to this again?? It was terminally torturous.
We reached a clearing where we rested and stapled on one of the wild berries that grew there. From here another 500 m, of trail, more or less brought us to the Summit Trail. This is actually the half way meet up point where we met the other climbers from the Timpohon trail . The whole route from Mesilau to Layang-Layang Hut is about 5.7 kilometers. From here we ascended up again to reach Laban Rata, the basecamp situated at about 3273m above sea level. Laban Rata Guesthouse is pretty fully booked all year around and even as we did our booking 6 months in advance, we couldn't secure a place. Our next alternative was Gunting Lagadan Hut which was situated higher above the Laban Rata guesthouse. So you can imagine the dread we felt when we were told that upon reaching Laban Rata, that our night stay would require us to climb further. Actually it wasn't far at all, probably about 300m away but it was steps and rocks all the way. We had our well deserved meal of the year and agreed that it was the best food in the world given the circumstances we were at. It was freezing outside and the warm soup came as blessing. After an eight hour hike, we ate like there was no tommorow. Truly glorious food.
We reached a clearing where we rested and stapled on one of the wild berries that grew there. From here another 500 m, of trail, more or less brought us to the Summit Trail. This is actually the half way meet up point where we met the other climbers from the Timpohon trail . The whole route from Mesilau to Layang-Layang Hut is about 5.7 kilometers. From here we ascended up again to reach Laban Rata, the basecamp situated at about 3273m above sea level. Laban Rata Guesthouse is pretty fully booked all year around and even as we did our booking 6 months in advance, we couldn't secure a place. Our next alternative was Gunting Lagadan Hut which was situated higher above the Laban Rata guesthouse. So you can imagine the dread we felt when we were told that upon reaching Laban Rata, that our night stay would require us to climb further. Actually it wasn't far at all, probably about 300m away but it was steps and rocks all the way. We had our well deserved meal of the year and agreed that it was the best food in the world given the circumstances we were at. It was freezing outside and the warm soup came as blessing. After an eight hour hike, we ate like there was no tommorow. Truly glorious food.
After our lunch cum dinner meal, we rested at the Laban Rata guesthouse, this is actually the only guesthouse that serves food to all the climbers within the neighboring huts as well. Dusk came early and we were told to get adequate rest as the hike up to the summit would begin as early as 2.30am. It started raining heavily around midnight. We heard stories of fellow climbers saying that if it rains, we won't be allowed to hike up the summit as it would be too dangerous. I prayed hard probably till I fell asleep that night. We can't go back without reaching the peak. We came too far and hell I tortured myself. This better be worth it.
Day 4- Midmorning
I was awaken by the voice of other climbers in the hut. Most of whom had woken up earlier. Some were having hot drinks. We quickly freshened up. Forget about bathing. Even a simple step of brushing your teeth and washing your face would require a lot of thinking because the water was freezing cold. We had hot drinks and I couldn't resist a steaming cup of Maggi Mee against that cold weather. Laban Rata serves breakfast at 2am but to get there you need to go down to eat and come back up again to the Summit Trail. A totally unnecessary feat I suggest only if you enjoy wasting time at 2.30am in the morning or if you regard yourself as the Hulk of Mountain Climbing. We packed our stuffs and left the hut with the other climbers. Any latter than 3am, you're risking of missing the first glimpse of sun at the mountain's peak. It was probably 3 degrees in the air outside because the rain had just stopped. I must say I underestimated the bone seeping chillness. The cold air that slaps you in the face really stings at times and in less than 1o minutes, my hands and feet were already numb.
Probably just about 15minutes of the Summit Trail, I was already weak and was on the verge of giving up. But perseverance was prudent. It was pitch dark apart from the light from my head torchlight (A climbing essential). And soon enough I was separated from my other 5 friends who started the climb with me as we all had different paces and the hike was getting more difficult with the oxygen thinning. Our next stop was the Sayat-Sayat Hut, the only hut where we must stop for registration and refil our water bottles. As the Summit Trail is predominantly rocks with minimal vegetation, many times we had to held on to the ropes that were placed on the rocks for stability. Some trails were as steep as 70-80degrees. Tough grasses and other plants cling to rock cervices, flowering and fruiting only a few centimeters tall. As we pass the 8km mark, we could see the South Peak and St. John's Peak on our left.
From here the bare granite slabs stretch endlessly ahead to the pile of jumbled rocks that is Low's Peak (the peak at the back of our one ringgit note, bet you didn't that ;) which I think is rather ironic of a name for the highest point of the summit, the 4095m mark. The bare granite slabs stretched ahead me were the longest 400 m or so of my life, at least that's how I felt while I was there. I was the second to reach among my team members just in time to catch the rising sun at around 5.30am. What a stunning view it was. By 6.00am, it was bright enough to see all the surrounding peaks and as the rock summit is a rather small place, it gets crowded with climbers rather easily. After a short stop at the summit to get the neccesarry but the most meaningful picture of the trip, we descended down. Further down on the right, we could see the South Peak. Along the summit plateau, as we walk down we saw the Ugly Sister's Peak and Donkeys Ears Peak on our left.
It's only as we descended down, we could see the whole horizon below us as it was dark when we hike up. It was a terrific view. The Kundasang and Ranau town was clearly visible because the sun was already up. On our way down, we spotted the Rabbit rock. The granite slabs of the mountain rocks actually created a rabbit image. Look closely and you'll spot it. It was actually, on my way down that I realized how dangerous some of the steep slope can be and with no helmet or climbing harness, it could be fatal with a mere miss of one's step . Descending down, we still had to use the ropes but with our body facing the mountain. Kinda like a back fall only hoping no one would fall. I had a little slip in one of the slope and hit my head but managed somehow to cling to someone. Scary. Thinking about it now, I could have slipped and injured myself.
Probably just about 15minutes of the Summit Trail, I was already weak and was on the verge of giving up. But perseverance was prudent. It was pitch dark apart from the light from my head torchlight (A climbing essential). And soon enough I was separated from my other 5 friends who started the climb with me as we all had different paces and the hike was getting more difficult with the oxygen thinning. Our next stop was the Sayat-Sayat Hut, the only hut where we must stop for registration and refil our water bottles. As the Summit Trail is predominantly rocks with minimal vegetation, many times we had to held on to the ropes that were placed on the rocks for stability. Some trails were as steep as 70-80degrees. Tough grasses and other plants cling to rock cervices, flowering and fruiting only a few centimeters tall. As we pass the 8km mark, we could see the South Peak and St. John's Peak on our left.
From here the bare granite slabs stretch endlessly ahead to the pile of jumbled rocks that is Low's Peak (the peak at the back of our one ringgit note, bet you didn't that ;) which I think is rather ironic of a name for the highest point of the summit, the 4095m mark. The bare granite slabs stretched ahead me were the longest 400 m or so of my life, at least that's how I felt while I was there. I was the second to reach among my team members just in time to catch the rising sun at around 5.30am. What a stunning view it was. By 6.00am, it was bright enough to see all the surrounding peaks and as the rock summit is a rather small place, it gets crowded with climbers rather easily. After a short stop at the summit to get the neccesarry but the most meaningful picture of the trip, we descended down. Further down on the right, we could see the South Peak. Along the summit plateau, as we walk down we saw the Ugly Sister's Peak and Donkeys Ears Peak on our left.
It's only as we descended down, we could see the whole horizon below us as it was dark when we hike up. It was a terrific view. The Kundasang and Ranau town was clearly visible because the sun was already up. On our way down, we spotted the Rabbit rock. The granite slabs of the mountain rocks actually created a rabbit image. Look closely and you'll spot it. It was actually, on my way down that I realized how dangerous some of the steep slope can be and with no helmet or climbing harness, it could be fatal with a mere miss of one's step . Descending down, we still had to use the ropes but with our body facing the mountain. Kinda like a back fall only hoping no one would fall. I had a little slip in one of the slope and hit my head but managed somehow to cling to someone. Scary. Thinking about it now, I could have slipped and injured myself.
We didn't make at a pit stop at Laban Rata anymore and headed straight down. Another more challenging ordeal is the climb down. As we were exhausted coupled with all the weights on our thighs, knees and ball of foot, we had to walk carefully. We went down the Timpohon trail which was downhill about 90% of the time. Although it was down slope all the way, the gravity pull was tough on our thighs and toes. I advise future climbers to wear an open toe sandals with socks or alternatively you could cut out the front part of the Kampung Adidas shoes to prevent your toes from hitting the insides of the shoe. We reached the Timpohon gate shortly before lunch with swollen feet and a great sigh of relief. And I decided this was probably my once and only hike up this mountain. No more self torture trip. We collected our colourful certificate ( The one who doesn't make it to the summit gets a black and white mediocre :p cert). Our trip ended with a buffet lunch, one that we again greatly welcome. By this time, all we wanted to do was to go back and rest for we have another 2 days of activities to continue with.
Though it was momentarily tiring and seemingly impossible sometimes, I must say it was a great achievement for us as we were never the sort who exercise let alone climb. The beauty of the mountain and its surroundings was worth every little torturous step.
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